From the Streets of Scampia to the Ruins of Pompeii
Naples is a city of layers gritty and graceful, ancient and alive. On this particular day, I set out to explore two vastly different sides of its story: the raw, real-world resilience of Scampia, and the hauntingly preserved silence of Pompeii's ancient ruins.
Scampia, often misunderstood and misrepresented, offered me a chance to see beyond the headlines. It's a place where community strength is quietly rebuilding identity amidst a legacy of hardship. Walking its streets, I found more than just the towering remains of the infamous Vele I found people, projects, and stories that deserve to be heard.
Later, stepping into Pompeii was like crossing a threshold into another world. Wandering through crumbling villas, vibrant frescoes, and stone streets frozen in time, I couldn't help but reflect on the fragility of life and the echoes that history leaves behind.
This day was a powerful journey through resilience and ruins, past and present. Come along as I share the details, impressions, and unexpected moments from a trip that left a lasting mark on me.
What Is Pompeii?
Pompeii is an archaeological site in southern Italy, near the city of Naples. The site includes the ruins of the ancient city of Pompeii, which was destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. The ruins of Pompeii are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they are some of the most well-preserved ruins in the world. More than 3 million people visit Pompeii every year. Pompeii was a large city, with a population of around 20,000 people. It was a prosperous city, with many public baths, temples, and luxury homes.
Where Is Pompeii?
Pompeii is located in southern Italy, about 25 miles (40 kilometers) southeast of Naples. It’s close to the Amalfi Coast, which is a popular tourist destination.
How to reach Pompeii?
Train from Rome to Naples
There are about 16 trains per day that you can take to reach the station nearest to the Pompeii ruins from the Roma Termini train and bus station. If you travel from the Rome Fiumicino Airport, you have to take the Leonardo Express shuttle train to the Termini railway station. Then, it would be best if you had a train which goes to Naples (Napoli Centrale).
There are different types of trains that run between Rome and Naples:
Eurostar Freccia Rossa (TAV) is the most convenient and fastest option and the most expensive. In less than two hours, you will arrive at Naples' Piazza Garibaldi station. Also, the train departs every hour, and usually, it is quite punctual. The ticket price is from 20 euros one-way
Intercity: the ride takes about two hours to reach Naples by this train, with the ticket cost starting from 18 euro
Interregional: these trains stop at every station, so the journey from Rome to Naples takes about four hours. The ticket price is cheap – about 10 euros, so this option is perfect for budget tourists
The easiest way to reach Pompeii from NAPLES is the Circumvesuviana train that runs between Naples and Sorrento. From the Circumvesuviana stations, you can easily walk to the ruins or catch a bus for the Mount Vesuvius National Park
Naples Centrale Station is located on ground level. From the ground, level escalators go down one level to an underground shopping center, and then you can go further to the Naples Metro. Naples Garibaldi Station is located on the same level as the shopping center.
The Circumvesuviana trains operate twice an hour between 6 am and 9.30 pm. Usually, trains are quite crowded. The journey to Pompeii Scavi station takes around 40 minutes. You can buy tickets from the ticket counter in Naples, but note that only cash is taken.
The Metropolitan Railway is line 2 of the Naples Metro system. The station at Pompeii is located in the town, at a longer distance from the entrances of Pompeii than the Circumvesuviana’s one. However, there are usually less crowded trains, and you can buy tickets online on the website of Trenitalia.
Once you arrive in Pompeii, you must purchase a ticket to enter the archaeological site. Tickets can be purchased at the entrance or in advance online.
I recommend getting an early start if you visit Pompeii on a day trip from Rome or Naples. This will allow you to avoid the large crowds that come later in the day.
Here are some of the highlights:
The Amphitheatre:
The amphitheater is one of the most popular attractions in Pompeii. It was built around 80 B.C. and could seat up to 20,000 people. The amphitheater was used for public events, such as gladiator fights, plays, and musical performances.
The Villa of Mysteries:
The Villa of Mysteries is a large villa that was built around the 1st century B.C. It’s one of the best-preserved homes in Pompeii, and it’s famous for its frescoes. The frescoes depict the Roman ritual of initiation into the cult of Dionysus. This was a secret ceremony that was only open to women.
The House of the Faun:
The House of the Faun is one of Pompeii's largest and most luxurious homes. It was built around the 2nd century B.C., covering over 4,000 square feet (1,000 square meters). The house gets its name from the bronze statue of a faun that was found in the garden. The statue is now on display in the Naples National Archaeological Museum.
The Pompeii Ruins: Of course, no visit to Pompeii would be complete without exploring the ruins. The archaeological site covers an area of 150 acres (60 hectares), including over 150 homes, public buildings, and temples.
The Lupanar of Pompeii
Among the most visited attractions of the Pompeii ruins are the "Lupanare", the Roman term with which the places of pleasure and sex were identified. Put simply, the brothels.
One of the most popular brothels in Pompeii was brought to light with the Bourbon excavations. It represented only one of about 25 brothels in the town: an important number in relation to the inhabitants of Pompeii at the time, estimated between 8,000 and 10,000.
The "lupanari" are, therefore two-storey buildings used for prostitution. Impossible not to find them: despite being located at the corners of the secondary streets, it was enough to follow the phallic symbols on the facades of the houses. Inside these buildings, some erotic-themed paintings welcomed customers.
Pompeii Theaters
Located a short distance from the Casa del Fauno is the Large Theater, built in the 2nd century BC. The horseshoe-shaped steps were built by exploiting the cavity of the slope. The structure could accommodate about 5,000 spectators and a mobile tarpaulin sheltered the spectators from the elements. The whole building was adorned with statues and marble. The theater is still in use: plays have recently been staged .
The Small Theater is instead a building built between 80 and 75 BC. At the time, musical performances and poetry recitations entertained audiences of around 1,300 people. The spectators sat according to the political and social class they belonged to, divided into three different areas, decorated according to their wealth.
Explore the Brothels of Pompeii
The city of Rome was a thriving place for the wealthy, with luxurious indulgences, like the houses of pleasure. Although the people of Pompeii portrayed these brothels as an erotic treat, the reality of the sex workers is quite tragic. Many of the workers were slaves working in tiny cells. It does have a heartbreaking past attached to it, but these structures are still worth exploring. These brothels are beautifully preserved, with erotic art painted on the walls, displaying the services provided for the historic community.
View the Forum Baths
Sitting near the Forum, the baths are beautifully well-preserved to date. Get insights into how they heated the baths back in the day when they were in use while exploring the bath.
While these baths are comparatively small to the various bath ruins in Pompeii, they are arguably the most elegant. The forum baths had separate sections for men and women, including separate entrances.
Visit the Forum of Pompeii
During its glory days, the Pompeii Forum was the focal point of the religious, political, and cultural life of Pompeii. Featuring some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, the forum spanned an area of 157 mt x 38 mt and housed important public, commercial, and religious buildings that were frequented by the common folk such as the Temple of Jupiter, the Curia, where the city council met to discuss municipal matters, and the Comitium, an open space used for public gatherings and political speeches. Now, ruins remain of the once-bustling marketplace, offering visitors a special peek at life during the Roman Empire.
View the Palaestra
Palaestra is the Latin word for 'gym'. The Large Palaestra comprises a large open-air square that is surrounded by porticoes. The area is enclosed by a high wall. Centuries-old plane trees lined the three sides of the courtyard. All that is left of the trees today are the molds of the roots. At the center, you will find the pool.
Built in the Augustan period, at the beginning of the 1st century AD, the courtyard was used as a gym for the physical and intellectual training of young citizens of Pompeii. Today, the Palaestra hosts the permanent exhibition dedicated to the frescoes and artifacts found in the Complex of the Moregine Triclinium.
Explore the House of the Tragic Poet
The House of Tragic Poet is best known for the mosaic that reads 'Cave Canem', which translates to 'Beware of the dog' at the main entrance. The house's atrium and tablinum feature fine mosaics, including one of the scene of actors who is in the process of getting ready for a play. This mosaic became the source of inspiration for the name of the building.
The living room features mythological paintings, including episodes from the Iliad. The most visible one of these is the one that depicts Ariadne being abandoned by Theseus, on the wall opposite the Sale of Cupids.
How Much Time Do You Need In Pompeii
Pompeii is a large archaeological site, so you could easily spend a whole day exploring the ruins.
However, if you're short on time, you can still see the highlights of Pompeii in a few hours.
A Glimpse at Mount Vesuvius – Even If I Didn't Climb It
Although I didn't have time to hike up Mount Vesuvius during my trip, I couldn't leave it out of my blog. This volcano looms large over Naples and its surroundings—not just in the landscape, but in history, myth, and memory. Even from a distance, its silhouette is powerful, almost poetic. So while I didn't get the chance to walk its trails or peer into the crater, I still wanted to share some information and context for anyone curious or planning a visit. Vesuvius isn't just "the volcano that buried Pompeii"—it's a living, breathing natural wonder with a story of its own. Whether you're a geology enthusiast, a history lover, or just someone looking for a great panoramic view, Vesuvius is one of those iconic places that truly deserves a spot on your travel list. Here's what you should know before you go.
When most people think of Mount Vesuvius, they think of the catastrophic eruption in 79 A.D. that destroyed the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum. But the volcano has erupted many times since then, most recently in 1944. Each time, it has buried villages and destroyed homes and businesses. Today, communities still live on the slopes of Vesuvius, in the so-called “red zone”. The volcano is now a popular tourist destination, with many people visiting Pompeii as a day trip from Rome or Naples.
Mount Vesuvius dominates the skyline not only from the Roman ruins but also from the modern city of Naples; it stands some 1200-meters tall. This active volcano can even be hiked via a steep and somewhat challenging trail leading to the top, which can easily be tackled in a few hours return trip. It's an amazing hike to undertake near the huge crater that's found at the summit, you can begin to feel the powerful geothermal energy below your feet, and even in some places see the gases venting from the ground.
It's nature at both its finest and most nerve-wracking, but an experience that should not be missed, maybe next time I will have the chance.
Meeting the Unexpected in Scampia
When I first decided to visit Scampia, I wasn't sure what to expect. Like many, I had only heard stories most of them shaped by crime dramas and news headlines. But the truth is, what I saw in Scampia was something entirely different. And honestly? I was excited. Excited to step beyond the stereotypes, to walk those streets myself, and to see what life there really looks like.
What I found surprised me in the best way. Yes, the remnants of the old "Vele" buildings still stand like echoes of a difficult past, but around them? Life. Community. Change. I saw murals of hope painted on gray walls, children playing in small parks, and locals who welcomed visitors with cautious curiosity and quiet pride. I spoke with people involved in local projects, saw grassroots efforts to reclaim identity, and felt the pulse of a neighborhood that refuses to be defined by its scars.
This wasn't just urban exploration—it was a lesson in humanity, resilience, and the beauty of looking past appearances. And I couldn't wait to share it with you.
The history of the Scampia neighbourhood: why is it called that?
In the past, this area of Naples was open countryside, and its name derives from the fact that people used to go on outings there. Towards the end of the 1960s, the local authorities identified this area, close to the city and featuring large open spaces and greenery, as an ideal location for the creation of a new residential zone. The aim was to alleviate congestion in the city centre and meet the growing demand for housing, driven in part by a significant population increase. However, the project faltered for a variety of reasons: following the 1980 earthquake, many people, particularly those from vulnerable backgrounds, were left homeless, and a large migration to Scampia occurred in search of housing. Many were allocated social housing, while others began to squat in the vacant properties in the neighbourhood.
The Sails of Scampia: the history of the buildings
Due to the housing crisis, many of the flats were illegally occupied, often before they were even completed, despite lacking essential services such as elevators, gas, electricity, and water. The situation worsened with the arrival of earthquake survivors, leading to overcrowding.
The original plans for the area were not respected, neither in terms of the buildings' structure nor the layout of the surrounding area. The area was intended to feature green spaces, a shopping centre, industrial activities, and recreational areas. All these factors, coupled with economic and social difficulties, a lack of job opportunities, and the rise of organised crime, contributed to the degradation of the complex.
Scampia and Le Vele: From a symbol of hope to a crime hotspot in Naples
Scampia is a district of Naples, which has gained notoriety in recent decades for its social problems and associated crime. The "Le Vele", a series of apartment blocks that have become a symbol of the neighborhood's problems, are particularly well known. But Scampia is more than just a place of negative headlines - it is a place full of history, culture and resistance. In this article, we look at the origins, challenges and current developments in Scampia and Le Vele.
.jpg)
Scampia was built in the 1960s as part of a large-scale urban development project to counter the growing population pressure in Naples. The district was intended to provide modern living space and improve the housing situation for thousands of families. At the heart of the project were the "Le Vele" (the sails). The buildings were so named because their shape was reminiscent of giant sails.
The challenge of crime
In the 1980s and 1990s, Scampia became the scene of fierce clashes between rival mafia groups. The Camorra took advantage of the social hardship and structural problems in the district to consolidate its power. Drug-related crime flourished and Le Vele developed into one of the largest open drug markets in Europe. These criminal activities were publicized by films and television series such as "Gomorra", which reinforced the public image of Scampia as a criminal swamp.
The TV series Gomorrah
The series "Gomorra" is based on the book of the same name by Roberto Saviano and offers an intense insight into the life of the Neapolitan mafia, the Camorra. The gritty and realistic portrayal of crime, violence and power struggles in Naples makes the series a gripping drama. Part of the plot is set in Scampia and the notorious Le Vele, which makes the series even more authentic and haunting.
By depicting the criminal underworld in detail, "Gomorra" shows the complex social and economic interdependencies of the mafia. The series sheds light not only on the big bosses, but also on the lives of ordinary members and their families. The characters are deep and multi-layered, allowing the viewer to understand their motives and inner conflicts.
"Gomorra" achieved international fame and received numerous awards for its outstanding direction, screenplay and acting performances. The series made a significant contribution to raising global awareness of the problem of organized crime in Italy. Despite its fictional nature, "Gomorra" has a strong resonance in the real world, especially in Naples, where the impact of the Camorra is omnipresent. With its intense and often shocking portrayal, "Gomorra" has taken the mafia drama genre to a new level.
Scampia and Le Vele are more than just symbols of urban problems and crime. They also stand for the resilience and spirit of resistance of a community that does not give up despite adverse circumstances. The story of Scampia is both a reminder and an inspiration of how positive change can be achieved through targeted social and urban development measures.
Even though the challenges remain great, the current developments and the commitment of the local people give reason to hope that Scampia can one day be seen as an example of successful urban development and social change.
Scampia: the redevelopment of the neighbourhood today
Today, Scampia is at the heart of an urban and social redevelopment project. Over the years, many of the buildings in the "Vele" complex have been demolished, while others have been renovated through targeted interventions. A significant contribution to the regeneration of the area comes from the work of local associations. Thanks to their activities, particularly those aimed at young people with a focus on legality, education, and employment, these associations are playing a crucial role in the neighbourhood's revival. On Viale della Resistenza, the new headquarters of the University of Naples Federico II has been inaugurated. The headquarters stands where the Vela H once was, a symbol of the neighbourhood.
Naples Underground
The Napoli Sotterranea is an official route through the underground tunnels of Naples city and is the most visited of all routes. You will find a completely different world 40 meters below the streets of Naples, but with a deep connection with the upper world. After descending 136 steps you will find the Greek Roman Aqueduct. The area you visit is initially well lit, but in some parts it is too dark. So you can continue the rest of the route with a candle or a flashlight to view the underground water basins. It is a special experience to move through the very narrow corridors of the aqueduct and not recommended for people with claustrophobia.
The Roman Theater:
Also on this Naples underground tour you will visit a typical Neapolitan house, also called "layer". The reason for this is that it is located at the street level of the city. Once inside, a hatch opens to the ancient Roman theater of Neapolis, where Emperor Nero had a private dressing room.
Summa Cavea:
Recently the Napoli Sotterranea has been expanded with a new discovery, Summa Cavea. It is another part of the Roman theater which houses a permanent exhibition of 'Scarabattoli'. Here you will see characteristic settings of beautiful handmade sculptures in glass display cases.
Gesù Nuovo, the most beautiful church in Naples
The Gesù Nuovo (the 'New Jesus') is one of the most important churches of Naples and because of its beautiful interior perhaps the most beautiful church in Naples. The reason why this basilica was given the name 'New Jesus' is to distinguish it from the old church of Jesus. Originally it was a 15th-century palace built in 1470 by Prince Salerno Roberto Sanseverino. The palace became famous for the beauty of its interior with its many frescoes, decorated rooms and beautiful garden. It became a leading example for the Neapolitan Renaissance and Baroque. Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo went through many changes over the centuries and it was taken over by the Jesuits at the end of the 16th century, who had it completely rebuilt. In the 18th century it was handed over to the Franciscan Reformation, and returned into the hands of the Jesuits in the 20th century. Aerial bombing in World War II caused extensive damage, as one of the bombs went through the ceiling without detonating. That bomb is still in the church today. The last big restoration took place in 1975.
Catacombs of San Gennaro
The Catacombs of San Gennaro were probably and initially the tombs of a noble family. The system carved out of the tuff dates back to the 2nd century AD. Subsequently, the tombs were made available to the Christian community. Expansions of the first floor followed in the 4th century ('the basilica') after the burial of the remains of Naples' first patron, Saint Agrippinus.
The upper space of the catacomb is also known as the burial place of the bishops and became especially known after its expansion with the remains of martyr San Gennaro in the fifth century. The presence of this martyr turned the upper catacomb into a place of pilgrimage and a coveted burial ground. The catacombs of San Gennaro have much larger spaces compared to the Roman catacombs. The reason for this is the machinability and strength of the tuff.
Final Reflections
This day trip reminded me that travel isn't always about postcard views or picture-perfect moments—it's about understanding. Scampia taught me to look deeper, to listen, and to challenge my own assumptions. Pompeii offered the humbling perspective of time, showing how entire lives can be preserved in ash, yet still speak volumes centuries later. Both places, in their own way, carry the weight of the past and the pulse of the present. Visiting them in the same day was intense, but unforgettable—and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
Happy reading!, let me know what you think!
I don't do membership or things like that, but if you wish to, can buy me a coffee ☕️
https://buymeacoffee.com/laur.tales
For support here ⤵👇👇
https://www.patreon.com/c/LaurTales
Thanks for stopping by!
No comments:
Post a Comment