In the north of Morocco, on the coasts of Tangier where the Mediterranean and Atlantic waters converge, you'll discover a unique city bearing a multicultural heritage.
Stroll the streets of « the White »Tangier, they are lined with lime-coated houses. Just like Delacroix or Matisse did their upon arrival, let yourself be carried away by the dreamy atmosphere that covers the city. At the foot of the high walls of the "Kasbah", roam through the alleys of the great "Socco", and admire the fortress that dominates the medina. A little far away, explore the "Sultan's Palace" which is nowaydays dedicated to the arts of Morocco. Tangier is also renowned for the Spanish influence on its culture, starting with the arena that stands on the "Plaza de Torros", not to mention the "Cervantes" theatre built in 1913.
Tangier is one of the oldest cities of Morocco. It is over 2,500 years old with a beautiful mix of cultures and nationalities. This is mainly because of its strategic location. Tangier is located on the Strait of Gibraltar, making it the portal to Europe and home to different cultures and religions. The city is crucial to the trade between the two continents, Europe and Africa.
Tangier has also been labeled "the white city" because of its immaculate white houses. It holds one of the richest histories and cultures in the world. The style and nature of the white city are very beautiful and inviting. One can never feel bored in Tangier, thanks to its unique diverse setting – nestled between the sea and rolling hills. Its land is also the arena where culture and traditions mingle and clash, giving birth to a fresh diverse culture.
Interesting historical facts about Tangier, Morocco:
A city with a complex history
From an ancient Greek, to a Phoenician, and later a Roman port, Tangier had been occupied by plenty of nations and peoples like the Moors and the Portuguese in 1471. It was initially founded by Carthaginian settlers in the fifth century BC. The city was also extremely valuable to the Berber people as it held the name of a Berber god: Tinjis. Tangier fell later under English rule in 1662. During that short period, it was called 'English Tangier' until it was abandoned to the Sultan of Morocco in 1684. It became part of Morocco in 1956 after undergoing an international control from 1904 to 1956 – except during the Second World War. This varied and complex history lives between the walls of the monuments this city preserves as part of its historical identity.
Home of Tangerines
Tangerines and Tangier; just by comparing the two words you can deduce that one certainly correlates with the other. Tangier is agriculturally known for Tangerines as the fruit originated in the city. That is why this sweet goodness has been named after the white city. From the family of Mandarins, Tangerines grow and serve as a delight to Tangier-dwellers, who can consider themselves lucky since the homegrown fruit does not get exported elsewhere. According to the Oxford English dictionary, people who lived in Tangier were also once called Tangerines.
Home of the golden beverage: Moroccan Mint Tea
Morocco is known for its delicious fresh tea. However, Tangier is the original city known for the special Moroccan mint tea whose main ingredient is, of course, mint! You can enjoy Mint Tea anywhere you go in Tangier, especially in Petit Socco, which translates from Spanish into "the Small Market". People from all around the world gather in this historical place which was once known as a place for drugs and prostitution, to savor their freshly made mint tea accompanied by some freshly baked cookies specific to Tangier. A pure delight!
The final resting place of Hercules
The legend states that Tangier is the final resting spot of Hercules in a location known as Hercules Cave. It is located just outside the city, and is a very popular tourist attraction. The cave has two openings, one towards the land through which tourists and visitors enter, and another facing the sea known as 'The Map of Africa' since its shape resembles the African map. This particular shape was not carved by the force of nature, instead it is believed that the Phoenicians created the sea opening to look like the African map.
As for the name of the cave, it is said that the Roman God Hercules stayed and slept in the cave before performing his 11th labor–one of the 12 labors that were assigned to him by King Eurystheus. It consisted of getting golden apples from the Hesperides Garden located near Lixus, commonly known as the Moroccan city Laarach. Whether you are a mythology fan or not, you will certainly enjoy visiting this famous and picturesque site.
Haven of spies
The city of Tangier has a checkered past. During the 19th and 20th century, the immaculate white city lost its purity and became the home of international spies. It was a safe ground where many spying and smuggling activities took place. This is one of the reasons why Tangier was brought up as allocation in multiple spy fiction books and movies, such as the popular Bourne series and few James Bond episodes.
Home of 30 nationalities
During Morocco's famous colonization by France and Spain, and while the country was divided between the two powers, strategic Tangier remained an independent city. It was an international zone of various sectors, similar to West Berlin during the Cold War. France, Spain, Holland, Britain, Sweden, Portugal, Italy, Belgium, and the USA all had a share of the prize, which was managed by the Moroccan Sultan.
Similar to any independent zone, Tangier had its own flag between 1923 and 1956, and was administered by France, Spain, Britain, and Italy. This is demonstrated through the various monuments around the city. From 1932 until it was declared Moroccan property in 1956, Tangier was an international tax-free zone controlled by a committee of 30 nations. During this era, Tangier acquired a bad reputation due to the illicit activities that began to expand on its land, such as financial fraud, espionage, smuggling, and outrageous sexual license by wealthy and eccentric expatriates.
Home for art
The promise of cosmopolitan freedom operated as a magnet to attract art to the city of Tangier. In the 50s and 60s, a small community of expatriate artists and writers relocated to Tangier. The man who started the trend was Paul Bowles, an American writer who moved to Tangier permanently in 1947. Among his works are The Sheltering Sky and Let it Come Down.
King William S. Burroughs lived in Tangier for 10 years as well, where he wrote Naked Lunch after being inspired by Paul Bowles' fiction. Burroughs also felt at home while writing about the city and the surrounding areas, especially that it offered him what he needed, drugs. During this period, Opium was easy to acquire in Tangier. The city also offered Burroughs the freedom to freely express his homosexuality. Evidence of the hallucinogenic side effects found in the Opium he acquired in Tangier are evident in his writings. Tangier also served as an attraction to many other artists such as Matisse and Tiffany. This gave Tangier the title of the vibrant and creative city.
Tangier sentenced to death by starvation
Anything could be bought at a price" was part of the mythos of Tangier's International Zone period. During that time, Tangier gained a bad reputation in the West as the land of criminals, spies, businessmen, and adventurers. When the Interzone period ended, the city entered a long period of decline and became a dreary port. Moroccan King Hassan II neglected the city and starved it of funding. Street hustlers multiplied, turning off tourists. The number of expats dwindled, until there were only a few thousand left during the end of his rule.
Let's explore the best things to do in Tangier:
1 Visit the Kasbah Museum
The Kasbah Museum of Tangier is a fantastic museum in a beautiful historic palace. A kasbah is essentially a castle, the place where the local leader would live and a fortress in case of attack. This one was the sultan's palace, used by the Portuguese governors in the 15th-17th century and British governors after that for a time.
Today, the Kasbah Museum, previously known as the Dar al Makhzen, houses a fabulous collection of art and artifacts ranging back thousands of years. One highlight is a spectacular mosaic floor from the ancient Roman city of Volubilis, near modern Fez, Morocco. This kasbah was an excellent introduction for me to Moroccan architecture and design. It reminded me so much of the Alhambra, the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, and the Mughal design of India. The exquisite plaster work, tile mosaics, and wood carvings. However, some of the design is not as well executed as the Nasrid Palace in Spain with courtyard fountains being off center causing an asymmetrical experience.
2 Tangier American Legation
Another highlight of the Tangier Medina is an interesting piece of American history. The Tangier American Legation is the only National Historic Landmark located outside of the United States (excluding a few in the Pacific islands that were part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands). Not used as an official diplomatic post anymore, this was the first foreign property purchased by the U.S. government, and it represents a very important relationship between the United States and Morocco.
The compound saddles a narrow road in the Medina called Rue d'Amerique. It boasts lovely Moroccan architecture and a wonderful collection of historical artifacts and stories. One wing houses an exhibit about the famed American expat writer and composer, Paul Bowles. Above this is an exhibit about Jewish women in Morocco. My personal favorite stories involving this special place are found framed on the stairs.
George Washington and the Constitution
In the 1780s, the United States inaugurated its first president, George Washington, after adopting the Constitution. President Washington sent a copy of the founding document to Mohammed III, Sultan of Morocco at the time along with a letter explaining its significance and his appreciation of Morocco's support and friendship for the new nation. Love of my home country swelled while reading this letter from President Washington.
A Gift of Lions
A fun story is also told in this stairwell. The sultan gifted a pair of Barbary lions to President Martin Van Buren. Consul Carr in Tangier informed the sultan that the President could not accept the gift, per the Constitution. The Sultan said they were for Congress. Again, Carr refused, saying Congress was not allowed to accept gifts. The sultan would not give up, so now the lions were for the American people. The consul tried to deny the gift again, but the lions were delivered anyway and let loose in the street in front of the legation. With threats of beheading if he didn't accept them, the lions eventually ended up being shipped to Philadelphia where President Van Buren had them auctioned off with the approval of Congress.
3 Dar el Makhzen (Kasbah)
Presiding over the northern alleys of the Medina is the palace ordered by Ismail Ibn Sharif (1672-1727), after he re-conquered Tangier following two centuries of English occupation.
Dar el Makhzen, put up on the ruins of the English "Upper Castle", was the seat of the Sultans of Morocco when they stayed in Tangier.
Sultan Abd al-Hafid (1875-1937), together with an entourage of 168 people, became a permanent resident here after being forced to abdicate in 1912 when the Treaty of Fez made Yusef of Morocco Sultan under the French Protectorate.
The palace is praised as one of Morocco's finest man-made landmarks, and centres on two exquisite arcaded courtyards, graced with intricate arabesques, carved cedar, marble fountains and columns, some carved by the Romans.
Dar el-Makhzen holds the Museum of Moroccan Arts and Antiquities, also known as the Kasbah Museum.
4 Cape Spartel
Up the coast from the Caves of Hercules is the scrub-topped promontory that marks the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar.
Protected by reserve, Cap Spartel rises to more than 300 metres above the ocean. The water off the cape has been the scene of battles in the American War of Independence and during the Spanish Civil War, and is named for an archipelago thought to have been submerged around 9400 BCE.
Spartel remains as a sandbank with a highest point 56 metres below the surface.
The lighthouse crowning the promontory dates from 1864 and was the first to be built in Morocco in modern times.
5 Grand Socco
Straddling the Medina and the Ville Nouvelle is Tangier's former central marketplace, which has since been given a facelift and become a transport hub.
So where there were once storytellers, musicians and snake charmers there's a landscaped space with palms and little lawns, all converging on a grand central fountain.
The name Grand Socco sums up Tangier's story, being a Spanish corruption of "souk". The borders are lined with cafes where you can witness life at the point where new and old Tangier meet.
And although large scale trading has gone, there are still plenty of stalls on Grand Socco, for fruit and arts and handmade crafts.
To the west are the Jardins de la Mendoubia, scene of a momentous event in Moroccan history.
6 Little Socco
At one point the Petit Socco in the Medina was one of Morocco's most important marketplaces, drawing people from across the region for its food and clothing stalls.
The buildings on the square's frontages have a blend of North African and European styles, which hints at the character of this spot during its early-20th-century heyday.
At that time bankers and diplomats had their offices at Petit Socco, and the affluence of the time was reflected in its casinos, hotels and cafes.
During the days of the International Zone there were German, English and French post offices on this one square.
The glamour of that time had ebbed away by the 1950s, but echoes remain in the louche cafés (Tinjis, Central, Tanger and Al Manara), and in the stucco facades and wrought iron balconies.
7 Tangier Grand Mosque
For non-Muslims, this is a sight to check out as you make your way around the Grand Socco on a tour of the Medina, getting a pic of the striking entrance and minaret on the way.
The Grand Mosque is the largest in the city, raised in 1685 on the foundations of a demolished Portuguese church, which before that had been a Roman temple.
The mosque took on its current appearance in 1815 under Sultan Moulay Sliman, and Sultan Mohammed V worshipped here on a way to make a momentous speech in Tangier in 1947.
8 Gran Teatro Cervantes
A decaying Spanish artefact, the 1,400-capacity Gran Teatro Cervantes was constructed in 1913, and in its day was one of the most important stages in North Africa.
Some of Europe's leading performers like the Italian tenor Enrico Caruso trod these boards in the early 20th century.
Fair to say that the now empty theatre a short walk south of the American Legation has seen better days, as you'll tell from its crumbling Art Nouveau facade.
But in 2019 the property was officially handed by Spain to the Moroccan government, which has committed to restoring and reopening the venue as a theatre and cultural centre.
9 Tomb of Ibn Batuta
One of Tangier's most famous sons is the Arab world's answer to Marco Polo, a 14th-century explorer who embarked on a 29-year adventure across almost all of the Islamic world, as well as China, South Asia, Southeast Asia and Central Asia.
Like any spot in the Medina, his tomb can be a challenge to find, and sits on the tiny Rue Ibn Batouta, a couple of minutes southwest of the Kasbah.
Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll come across a sign and an information board detailing Ibn Battuta’s life in French, English and Arabic.
The gate for Bab El Assa has a number that you can call.
Eventually, a muezzin will appear and lead you to the sarcophagus, wrapped in a green cloth with verses from the Koran.
10 Jardins de la Mendoubia
At the western edge of the Grand Socco you can break out into some open space in the grounds of the city’s commercial court (Tribunal de Commerce). This estate was set up for the Mendoub, a representative of the sultan, during Tangier’s time as an International Zone.
Pavilions from the Mendoub were also used as the headquarters of the German consulate during their occupation from 1941. At the main entrance you’ll be greeted by a large arch carved with Arabic script, behind which are palms, lawns and flowerbeds.
The park has 30 bronze cannons dating back to the 17th century, and some of the oldest trees in the city, including a majestic banyan thought to date back 850 years.
It was in this park in April 1947 that Sultan Mohammed V gave a historic speech calling for Morocco’s independence.
11 Cap Malabata
Closing off the Bay of Tangier at its eastern end of the Bay of Tangier is the promontory, Cap Malabata. Atop the cliffs is a lighthouse and a small castle, built in the early 20th century in a Medieval style.
The reason to come is to visit the cafe, and contemplate the view as the sun goes down with a glass of mint tea or powerful coffee. Near the point where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet, you can make out Spain and Gibraltar across the strait, or look back over the Bay of Tangier to see the city and port in lights.
12 Drink Tea at Cafe Hafa
Cafe Hafa is one of the city’s mainstays, and one of the best places to visit in Tangier. It sits on a cliff overlooking the sea, a ten minute walk from Bab Kasbah, with sprawling views and plenty of places to kick back and chill out. Have a classic mint tea to blend in with the locals or a fresh squeezed orange juice to cool off a bit.
13 Visit one of the oldest coffee shop in Tangier, the Baba Cafe
Baba Cafe is a Tangier institution that has been looking over the city for over 80 years. Best known as the site where the Rolling Stones got stoned , Baba is a mainstay, and having a coffee or tea here is one of the best things to do in Tangier.
If you’re lucky, snag a seat by the window for a breath of fresh air through the hazy hash smoke that floods the cafe and enjoy the music of whoever was lucky enough to secure the AUX cord that day.
It’s pretty crowded in the evenings, especially when there’s a football match on TV. But a little smile goes a long way you’ll quickly find that locals will always make space if you’re friendly.
14 Have a Traditional Moroccan Breakfast at the Tangier Co-op
If you only choose one of the places to visit in Tangier, have breakfast at the Fendak Dar Dbagh co-op. Aside from having, by far, the best traditional Moroccan breakfast in the city, this sweet little compound is home to female artisans who sell their wares at stalls lining the small area. I bought one of my favorite Moroccan souvenirs here a hand-painted tile of a Berber woman. Everything is unique and has a set price, making it easy shopping if you're not in the mood to haggle.
In terms of breakfast, expect a massive spread of eggs, bread, olives, cheese, jam, and coffee or tea. It’s quiet, tranquil, and the perfect place to start any day in Tangier.
15 The romantic gardens of the Villa Mabrouka
The garden, originally designed in the early nineties by renowned landscape designer Madison Cox under Saint Laurent and Bergé’s guidance, traverses a series of cascading terraces deftly positioned to allow for breathtaking views across the Strait of Gibraltar and the North Atlantic Sea.
Located only moments from the bustle of Tangier’s Kasbah and Medina, once through Villa Mabrouka’s heavy carved wooden doors and into its lush, vibrant gardens – constantly filled with birdsong and gentle breezes – you are transported immediately into the feeling of paradise.
16 Experience Local Life in Downtown Tangier
Most people who visit the city never leave the medina, but one of the best things to do in Tangier is wander around downtown to really witness how the locals live.
The urban centers surrounding the medina come to life after the sun goes down, bringing out hordes of people to shop, eat, and spend time with their friends and family. The streets, especially around Avenue Mohammed V, are positively packed, and it’s definitely worth witnessing, especially if you’ve only spent time in the old city on your trip.
17 Soak in Sea Views from Le Salon Bleu
Le Salon Bleu has one of the top views in the city, and having lunch here is one of the best things to do in Tangier. I ate here on my first trip to Tangier, and I was utterly blown away, both by the expansive panoramic sights from the topmost terrace and by the delicious Moroccan tapas and fresh juice. This place serves Mediterranean vibes and shouldn’t be missed on a sunny day.
Arrive early to snag a seat by the ledge for unobstructed views.
18 Visit Fortification Interpretation Center (Borj Dar El Baroud)
Borj Dar El Baroud was a military fortification with a series of imposing batteries dating from the 15th century and located to the north-east of the Medina of Tangier. The site is dedicated to the permanent exhibition of the history of the fortified buildings and the city's artillery through models, photographs and maps, in addition to a collection of weapons and military uniforms. This space also has a model of the seven most important Borjs of the city to immerse the visitor in an architectural projection of the period. It is a real meeting and information place for the inhabitants and tourists and becomes an educational support for schoolchildren and university students.
Today, Borj Dar El Baroud has been transformed into a Fortifications Interpretation Centre, showcasing the history of Tangier's fortified buildings. Visitors can explore models, photographs, and maps detailing the evolution of the city's defences, along with a collection of weapons and military uniforms. The site also includes a scale model of Tangier's seven most important fortresses, offering an immersive architectural projection of the period.
19 About Morocco Transportation: Largest and Newest Port in Africa Tangier-Med
The Port of Tanger Med (aka Tangier Med) is the largest in Africa by cargo capacity and is one of the top harbours of Morocco. Run by the Tanger Med Port Authority, it is the largest Mediterranean port on the Moroccan coastline. It has been operational since 2007 and has achieved record container and cargo shipments in a short period. The original facilities were built to handle a capacity of 3.5 million TEUs, but a recent development project has increased that to a maximum of 9 million TEUs.
Based out of Northern Morocco, the port is in a prime location to carry out trade with Europe. This was laid down as a proposal in a free trade agreement signed between Morocco and the EU in 2012. The port's proximity to the Straits of Gibraltar allows it access to major shipping hubs. It offers many incentives to private firms that set up operations out of the port's logistics hub and freeport zone. An interesting feature of Tanger Med is that it is currently building a hub that will make it the only port in North-Western Africa that runs a facility for the transhipment of cereal. The harbour also stores over 10 million tons of oil annually.
Terminal 1 of the harbour has a 3.5 million TEU capacity and operates 1.6 kilometres of container docks. The average anchorage depth is 17 meters for this terminal and it sits on 140 hectares of land. The passenger terminal spans 2.5 kilometres and operates out of 8 berths. The average water depth is 10 meters and this facility spreads across 35 hectares of land. Terminal 2 has a capacity of 5.5 million TEUs and spans 2.8 kilometres in length for container facilities. An area of 160 hectares is set aside for this terminal and it includes oil stations for refuelling.
Very Important Things to Know When Planning Your Tangier Day Trip from Spain
Bring Your Passport! You will need your passport to enter Morocco and return to Spain.
SIM Cards. Consider getting an eSIM for Morocco. I bought an eSIM through Airalo, which I use for our SIM cards while traveling. If you don't plan on purchasing a SIM card, cache your Google Maps on your phone and put the phone in airplane mode so the map doesn't try to update.
Currency. Bring cash. Some places I visited were cash only, but they did accept euros. I used both our credit card and euros and never had to withdraw dirhams or convert any currency.
Clothing. Keep your shoulders and knees covered.
Time Change. There is a one-hour time change between Tarifa, Spain and Tangier, Morocco. Spain observes daylight savings time from the end of March through the end of October. Morocco does not observe daylight savings time, but during Ramadan it will set the clocks back one hour. Confirm these times before you go, which is crucial to getting on the Tangier to Tarifa ferry at the end of the day.
Ferry Tickets. Purchase your ferry tickets in advance. The security checks to board the ferry closes 15 to 30 minutes before departure, depending on the ferry terminal. Get updates here.
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